Jan
23

‘Fashion weeks just have entertainment value’

Expressing concern over the growing number of fashion weeks, designer Rahul Mishra, who is known for his contribution to Indian handlooms and has featured in a National Geographic documentary, says most of them lack substance and have only entertainment value.

Instead, he advocates the maximum number of participants in a minimum of fashion weeks so that the desigers can remain focused.

“India has seen a tremendous growth in terms of fashion market in the last 10-15 years and (the major) fashion weeks have played an immense role in this success story. No one can deny the importance of (the major) fashion weeks in any context. But I feel there are too many fashion weeks happening in India today and unfortunately most of them have just entertainment value and lack substance,” the 31-year-old told IANS.

The designer started his journey with Lakme Fashion Week in 2006. Since then, he has successfully showcased his collection at several fashion galas, including the bi-annual Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week organised by the Fashion Development Council of India (FDCI).

Apart from these two major events, India, in the past few years, has witnessed a sudden rise in fashion weeks, what with the Chennai Fashion Week, the Bangalore Fashion Week, the Hyderabad Fashion Week, the Kolkata Fashion Week, the India International Fashion Week, the Jaipur Fashion Week, the Pune Fashion Week, the India International Jewellery Week and this year, the India Resost Fashion Week and India Kids Fashion Week.

On one hand, he is unhappy with many fashion weeks happening in different parts of India and on the other hand he feels the  fashion industry is completely dependent on the major fashion weeks so these need to be strengthened with greater participation.
“I am a find of the Lakme Fashion Week. I am completely aware of the importance of the (major) fashion weeks in India. The Indian fashion industry is completely dependent on the fashion weeks…fashion weeks are also our window for the rest of the world. That’s why I feel it is very essential for all of us to make fashion weeks stronger by participation to the best of our capabilities,” he added.

Mishra is known for his contribution to Indian handloom textiles. Recently, a documentary film on handlooms of India, made for National Geographic profiled his philosophy and work.

Jan
23

This documentary, made in collaboration with Unesco and the ministry of textiles, explores the rich world of India’s weavers and their magical creations through the eyes of Mishra as he is dedicated to the cause of exploring Indian weaves in the world of high fashion.

He feels Indian handlooms are not given due recognition in the country.
“India is a vast country and the handloom-dependent population in our country is massive. The condition of craftsmen and weavers is India is not very good. The handloom consumption has been on decline but it is poised for growth in the luxury segment. That is the way forward.

“We cannot keep placing handloom fabrics to compete with mass produced Chinese imports. With proper design intervention, I am trying to create a sustainable system to create a market for handlooms,” he said.

Mumbai-based Mishra recently launched his ‘Jaama’ Indian wear collection in the capital at multi-designer store Ogaan.

“I was planning the collection for a long time. The Indian market is flooded with Indian outfits and I wanted to create a very unique look. So it took a lot of research and weaving exploration to be able to conceive it. The collection signifies the attire of great Mughals and is inspired by the opulent domes of the Islamic art and architecture,” he said while explaining the concept behind the collection.

Next on his agenda is an accessories line.”I am extending my brand into accessories like handbags. I will be doing a very high quality bespoke limited edition range. I am also working on a few collaborations with big corporates. I am also working on idea of creating a very affordable premium mass brand. We will be working on reviving more crafts from different parts of India in coming season,” he said.

Jan
23

By the time you read this, the handful of women inclined to order haute couture clothing will be off to their first show – cosmetic enhancement perfected, liveried drivers at the ready and with a limousine-required wardrobe to match.

Any press in attendance will appear positively understated – and in my case very understated – by comparison. But if the Paris haute couture season may once have been upheld as an anachronism, the strange truth is that it now seems more relevant than it has done for years.

For the first time since 2004, Donatella Versace is on the schedule with her Atelier Versace collection: Angelina Jolie (pictured) was just one client who showed off this designer’s abilities at the Golden Globes last week. When the Versace label was struggling, a couture presentation was judged an expendable indulgence, but with it flourishing once more, and the “hand-made” tag increasingly denoting value in a saturated market, it’s back.

Following the death of François Lesage, master embroiderer to all the great couturiers for over half a century, a new artistic director has succeeded him. Hubert Barrière, formerly of rival Maison Hurel, was appointed to that post in November. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion (Chanel bought Lesage in 2002), cites 2011 as “a very good year” for the company. Newly appointed a fully-fledged member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne as of December, meanwhile, is Gambattista Valli. “It was clear from his show [in July] that he has caught the attention of a new generation of customers,” Didier Grumbach, president of that organisation said.

On the red carpet, as a powerful marketing tool but also as a craft form that the privileged feel compelled to invest in, haute couture is thriving. An increasingly hand-worked and upscale element to ready-to-wear collections is also testimony to the fact that, hard times notwithstanding, there are people willing to spend upwards of £20,000 on a dress. Such expense is relative and they do so safe in the knowledge that they’re never likely to run into anyone else wearing it at the same party.

Jan
23

As evidenced by the Heartline Ministries program’s tagline, “Crafting beauty. Giving hope.”, this nonprofit seeks to provide a positive outlet for fashion. Haitian Creations was established with the goal to empower the women of Haiti, providing them with the skills and education to successfully sustain themselves and their families.

The program began, according to Hamilton, when a couple from Boston moved to Haiti. Their original efforts dealt with child adoption and the large numbers of women forced to give up their children due to extenuating circumstances. After some time, however, they refocused on attacking the root of the problem; they taught the Haitian women the skills they would need to work for a profit and support themselves.

Women who enter the current program must first pass a literacy class. If unable to do so, they are given access to a free education and are taught to read, write and do mathematics. The women are then able to continue on to either a sewing or beading school.

After graduating from these programs, the women begin to work with their new skills and create products. Supplies, which they earn money to pay for, are continually brought to them from the United States by groups of volunteers through the ministry.

“The program is set up so that it will be sustainable and not just hand outs,” explained Hamilton. “So that the women will essentially be their own business owners. We’re just giving them the opportunity for that outlet.”

Jan
23

The Haitian women produce handmade purses and beaded jewelry which are transported back to the United States with the volunteers to be sold online and through what the program refers to as “purse parties” and “bead parties.” These functions give individuals and businesses the opportunity to host their own event in order to raise awareness for the organization; they also give friends, family, and customers the chance to purchase such one-of-a-kind pieces.

Hamilton said that when a woman’s item is sold, she receives 50% of the profit. True to the Haitian Creations goal of creating long-term sustainability for these women, half of that profit is direct cash and the other half is placed in a savings account that has been set up for each participant.

Hamilton herself first traveled to Haiti through a separate volunteer organization. She happened to come across Haitian Creations after hearing a couple speak about it at her boyfriend’s church.

“I first went to Haiti about two years ago and I just fell in love with the country,” she enthused. “And then whenever I came back from my trip I was like, ‘I just have to get back there somehow.’ I looked on their website and found this program and was like, ‘Oh my gosh, this is perfect for me!’”

Haitian women has been working with Haitian Creations for nearly a year and a half now, visiting the country when classes are not in session and at every opportunity in between.

To fund her seventh and most recent trip during this past winter break, Hamilton put her personal sewing and fashion design skills to use – she created and sold scarves. She raises money to cover the cost of all of her travels to Haiti, which don’t come with a cheap price tag.

Jan
23

Once there, Hamilton works directly with the women of Haitian Creations, specifically in the newer jewelry-making program. She helps in the design process and builds the brand image through the creation of logos and tags.

“[Heartline is] a ministry,” Hamilton explained, “and they’re really good at running that, but they don’t really have someone with the younger vision for sewing products in that market. So that’s kind of where I’m stepping in.”

Hamilton is continuing with her apparel design courses at UT next semester in order to be as equipped as possible to aid the program with her skills. After graduation, she plans to move to Haiti and work with Haitian Creations full time.

In the meantime, this ambitious student is finding ways to bring a taste of Haitian flair to Austin. On Thursday, December 8, Madewell hosted an event at their location in The Domain selling products from the nonprofit. As a manager at the store, Hamilton had coordinated other promotions previously before making a pitch for one close to her own heart.

“It was really cool to finally be able to bring the two together, and in the place that I work bring in my other passion,” she said.

Madewell holds a charity event every year, according to Hamilton. After applying and receiving approval from the corporate office, the company agreed to donate 15% of all sales during the event to Haitian Creations.

Jan
23

As customers perused the racks of clothing, most couldn’t help but find their way to the program’s table in the middle of the store. Browsing through purses in various styles and quirky fabrics, everything from vivid floral prints to rustic burlap could be found. Bracelets and necklaces strung with beads created from leftover fabric were displayed across the table.

The event also provided champagne, cupcakes, and an extra 50% off sale on all previously marked down merchandise that proved to be a key factor in drawing customers.

“We did pretty well,” Hamilton reported of the Haitian Creations sales specifically, “I really didn’t know what to expect at all since that was such a different customer base. Usually I’m at fair trade markets or places where people go in specifically for that, and it’s such a different style than Madewell. But we did really well.”

The event was such a success that Madewell donated over $1,000 to the program. One of the most beneficial aspects of events like this one, however, is the publicity.

“I think it was especially good for just letting people know about the brand and the programs and everything, because customers were excited to learn about it,” she explained. “And then I ended up meeting quite a few people that actually have done work in Haiti or visited there or were really interested in that kind of stuff. So that was cool to connect that and Madewell.”

The Saturday following this event, Hamilton and several coworkers also participated in a pop-up shop at a local furniture design store where more Haitian Creations products were sold.

Though online shopping still provides the largest number of sales for the program, Hamilton aims to fit as many events as possible into her schedule. She even hopes to have products on consignment in the future.

Jan
23

Establishing Austin connections is just one of many goals on her checklist for the program, though. One of her biggest areas of focus currently involves using her personal fashion background to benefit the program and expand the Haitian Creations product offerings to include clothing.

Apparel design students at UT create unique garments during each semester of sewing labs, culminating in a final collection of three looks to be shown on the runway during the annual spring fashion show. Hamilton plans to use this opportunity to create garments that are not only stylish, but easy to teach and have the women of the program recreate.

“That’s what I’m going for, I have all of these ideas of things that I trying to tie into it. I’m hoping to use it as an opportunity for investment, so if people invest in the collection they’re investing in expanding the program,” she said. “For instance, I want to create a type of bat wing top, a one-size-fits-all, that’s on a higher price point. But whenever you buy it, you’re also giving a woman a job and we would donate money to pay for a child’s education maybe too. So I want to make it even more well-rounded for everybody.”

She currently designs jewelry and purse prototypes for the program, focusing on marketable trends while keeping the styles easy to reproduce. The Haitian women are taught how to recreate the types of products they choose and are able to add personal touches that keep their pieces unique.

Hamilton refers to her role as a “guide” to these women. She helps the Haitians bridge the culture and style gap between their home and the United States and create products that American consumers will purchase, teaching them concepts such as the color wheel and matching.

Jan
23

Throughout the process, Hamilton hopes to define the Haitian Creations brand as trendy and to appeal to younger audiences as well.

“I definitely am trying to make the brand more young and on trend,” she asserted. “I think a lot of people might think of nonprofits and businesses like this as a place where they would do kind of a pity buy and or a charity type thing, and that it’s usually homely-type pieces. I don’t want it to be that way at all. I want to show that you can be a part of a movement and a good cause, and be stylish too.”

In steering the program in a fashionable direction, she simultaneously will tackle the challenge of streamlining the entire process and transitioning the primary resource location for the nonprofit to Haiti.

A to-do list this long might intimidate even the most weathered ministry veterans, let alone a college student, but Hamilton has a clear, confident vision of her plans for Haitian Creations and her overall impact in fashion.

“I think it’s amazing to know the story of someone who handcrafted and worked hard to make that piece of fashion that someone’s going to love to put on, and at an affordable price,” she expressed. “I just think in the grossly [consumerist] place that America has become it’s so great to think about. My kind of whole motivation for all of this is to redeem fashion in a way, so it turns from something that’s dirty into something hopeful and that’s restoring such a broken place.”

It’s safe to say that those fearful for the corrupt state of the apparel industry can rest assured that it’s not all scandals and animal slaughter. There are still individuals out there dedicated to bringing a fresh face to fashion.

Jan
23

Lifestyle Media Group announces network of women’s websites

The Lifestyle Media Group has announced it has partnered with lifestyle websites Covetish, Daily Addict, Drop Dead Gorgeous, Breakfast with Audrey, Sassy Bella, Australian Fashion Guide and Australian Women Online.

Lifestyle Media Group, the first dedicated network of premium women’s lifestyle websites, announces its partner sites as part of its advertising network.

The newest women’s lifestyle network is expanding and already represents Australia’s leading niche fashion, lifestyle and beauty sites including Covetish, Daily Addict, Drop Dead Gorgeous, Breakfast with Audrey, Sassy Bella, Australian Fashion Guide and Australian Women Online.

With a network that is fast growing, Dave Wright, Lifestyle Media’s Director plans to expand further and is currently in discussion with additional sites that see the benefits of a group media offering.

Lifestyle Media Group (LMG) has also developed a platform to reach international sites that are frequently visited by Australian women. Marketers too are excited to have exclusive access to such a targeted audience of female influencers across multiple touch points, products and platforms – a true 360 degree approach. The offering includes standard banners as well as advertorials, trial teams, product sampling and surveys as part of a fully integrated media package.

“As brands mature and become smarter in the digital space they are starting to look for deeper levels of integration with publishers and we feel we have a great opportunity to provide them with a niche option to complement their media strategy,” says Wright.

Officially launched in December, LMG is currently running an agency roadshow for digital ad agencies throughout the country and is already receiving significant interest in the market.


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